Jessica Kladerman
Staff Writer
This time last year the fashion world was introducing the fall collection for 2020. It was the last time the industry had a traditional in person fashion week reveal for designers fall collection.
Over the last year we have all felt the tangible changes in the fashion industry. With retail moguls like Macy’s closing down many of their stores to global fashion week cancellations from Paris to New York and Milan, the industry has had to make serious adaptations to stay afloat.
In the fast-paced world of runway fashion the seasons are revealed in opposing times of year; Spring/Summer in September and Fall/Winter in February. In September of 2020 we saw the Spring/Summer 2021, SS21, collections from couture and ready-to-wear designers.
Virtual fashion shows became very prominent as designers began to adjust. Jeremy Scott from Moschino created a cinematic experience through a quirky strings-attached puppet show runway. This runway film was inspired by the origins of haute couture and completely starred handmade puppets with puppet sized version of the entire collection.
Dior created an ethereal Tarot collection film uncovering their SS21 collection. Each look was inspired by a different Arcana from a deck of celestial tarot cards. Other brands like the French brand Jaquemus kept a more traditional in-person runway show for their SS21 Collection.
According to the Trend Spotter, online fashion magazine, there were a few trends inspired by SS21 Fashion Weeks. The 80s called and oversized blazers are back, along with a 70s callback to yellow and light brown wardrobe pieces. Pastels and yellow purses seem to be prominent as well.
A few weeks ago, the Fall/Winter 2021, FW21, fashion weeks ran around the world. Givenchy dazzled online audiences with a live stream on YouTube of their women’s and men’s Winter 2021 ready-to-wear collection. This film begins in the catwalks above the runway with suspenseful music and quick clips of several looks.
Another notable fashion house film came from Virgil Abloh with Louis Vuitton revealing their Menswear for FW21. This film has a much more serene start and leads you into a green marble labyrinth. With events of social and racial injustice climaxing over the last year, Abloh created a collection called “Ebonics,” exploring his African heritage to express black consciousness in the fashion world. Abloh has had to navigate being a black American creative director in the European fashion world, which can be a feat in itself.
Some may say Abloh was performative, others may think this was a progressive move. Fashion has always been about making a political statement and Abloh achieved this without misappropriating black culture like many brands have notoriously so, in the past.
Over in Paris’ Accor Arena there was another interesting fashion show done in-person. Coperni set up 36 electric cars with two guests in each car creating an iconic front row. This collection showed the usual black and muted khaki colors with a more “after dark” industrial style with pops of cobalt blue and neon green.
Coperni’s Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant wanted to create a show that reflected the style of the line while speaking out to climate conservation and the fashion industry’s role in global warming.
This season has given us notable talents from emerging models to emerging fashion brands outside of the big fashion houses.
The last few seasons a young model, of twelve years, by the name of Celai West has been storming runways; many call her the next Tyra Banks. West works in runway, print and has an acting reel; she is passionate about racial injustice activism and entrepreneurship.
Chelsea Grays is a New York City based ready-to-wear brand that uses repurposed materials and is considered gender neutral. Chelsea Grays breathes political activism focusing on textile designs that explore her many inspirations, such as her FW21 collection.
This collection was a tribute to the 2020 protests of police brutality towards the black community, with every look personifying a different issue. Among the looks were a combination of comfortable layers and more defined pieces with common fall colors ranging from “orange, olive and blue hues,” according to Danny de la Cruz with VRAI Magazine.
There are a few takeaway trends from FW21 fashion weeks to keep in mind this fall. Knitwear with beautiful patterns will keep us nice and warm during the two weeks of Florida “winter” we’ll experience later this year, and the 70s are lending us fringes again for our dresses and outerwear.
For those who love minimalistic fashion cream and ivory colors are going to be common in ready-to-wear outfits. Keyhole cutouts above the chest and above the abdomen have also revealed themselves among fall trends which can show to be very body positive.
With a global pandemic that does not seem to be going away anytime soon many brands are beginning to look towards ethics and sustainability. Whether it be with virtual runway shows or collections with a political purpose done right, the fashion industry hit the Fall/Winter 2021 season with a vengeance.
